While there is no one way to know that your cleanser is not working on your skin, there are three key signs that point to different issues that your cleanser might be causing.
Dehydration
followed by an increase in oil production, it is likely that your cleanser is dehydrating your face.
When our skin is oily, dirty, and sweaty from a long day, many of us look forward to the squeaky clean feeling that a cleanser can give our face. The common thought is that if our skin feels tight and clean after cleansing, then certainly the cleanser has done its job well. Unfortunately, a tight and squeaky clean feeling is an indication that your cleanser is too aggressive for your skin.
In order for a cleanser to effectively remove dirt from your skin, there must be surfactants in the formulation. Surfactants are the agents that create bubbles and help lift dirt and oil from the skin to be washed off. When a product contains high concentrations of strong surfactants, it can be extremely harsh on the skin. These intense cleansers strip oil from the surface of the skin and damage the skin barrier causing severe dehydration through transepidermal water loss.
While this might feel good for people with oily skin, it is common for people to feel even oilier about thirty minutes after cleansing. When we remove too much oil from our skin, our body ramps up oil production to compensate for the oil lost during cleansing. As a result, we end up with dehydrated and oily skin.
Irritation.
If your cleanser tingles or your face is red after cleansing, it is likely that your cleanser contains ingredients that are irritating your skin.
Everybody’s skin is different, and everybody reacts to skincare ingredients differently. While some ingredients are inherently more irritating that others, it is hard to predict how a product is going to react on somebody’s skin. That being said, if your face feels sensitive, itchy, or red after cleansing, there is probably something in your cleanser that you should not be putting on your skin.
Some people find that surfactants such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) are drying and irritating to the skin. For this reason there are many different variations of surfactants such as sodium laureth sulfate or coco-glucoside are marketed as gentler alternatives.
If your cleanser is marketed as anti-acne or oil-controlling, there could be active ingredients reacting with your skin. Common actives include alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) or salicylic acid (BHA), which help to exfoliate dead skin and unclog pores. While these ingredients are not bad ingredients, it is possible that these ingredients can irritate sensitive skin and potentially cause dehydration.
Alternatively, fragrance can be extremely sensitizing to all skin types. Fragrance comes in the form of chemical fragrance (parfum), or natural fragrance (essential oils). While you may not have a history of fragrance sensitivity, always avoid fragrance when possible. Fragrance can permanently sensitize your skin and cause serious burns when exposed to UV rays.
In the event that your cleanser is irritating your skin, look for a simple and gentle cleanser that will not aggravate or harm your skin.
Too Gentle.
If your skin is oily and dirty immediately after cleansing, odds are that your cleanser is not strong enough.
While not extremely common, there are some cleansers that are simply too gentle. As a result, your skin is not as clean as it needs to be after cleansing. This can lead to clogged pores, acne, and dull looking skin. If this is the case, there are two options.
Double Cleanse Option: If you wear a significant amount of face and eye makeup that is not coming off when cleansing, it is a good idea to start double cleansing. Double cleansing is a two step process where you loosen debris in the first step and wash it up in the second step. First, wash your face with an oil-based cleanser to lift and remove the majority of makeup and oil-based products from your skin. Second, cleanse your face with a water-based cleanser to remove leftover makeup and oil from the first step. Reference the end of this article for an in depth description of the double cleanse method.
Stronger Cleanser: If you don’t think you need to double cleanse, you might just need a stronger cleanser. Gel-based cleansers are typically gentler and might not work for you. Foaming cleansers can be a good option in this case due to the higher concentration of surfactants. They are simply better at removing dirt from the skin. However, make sure not to strip too much oil from your skin. This can cause more harm than good.
Finding A Cleanser For Your Skin Type.
1. Oily.
As a person with oily skin, I completely understand the satisfaction of a cleanser that strips all the oil off of my skin. After a day of oily skin, the first thing we think to do is remove the oil. But as I previously mentioned, there are many undesirable consequences of treating oily skin this way. The solution is finding a face wash that is able to clean dirt and oil without stripping the skin of its moisture and barrier.
A foaming cleanser may be more effective than a gel cleanser in the case of extremely oily, acne prone skin. However, it is extremely important to follow cleansing by applying a product that is both hydrating and moisturizing. Cleansing makes our skin more vulnerable to dehydration, so we must be careful to return hydration and protect our skin. Otherwise, our skin will end up more oily than before.
2. Dry.
Dry skin needs an extra push when it comes to hydration. Since dry skin naturally produces less oil than other skin types, it is important to find a cleanser that does not steal the oil from your skin. For this reason, I highly recommend minimally foaming, gel cleansers with hydrating oils and humectants in the formula. These cleansers should be able to remove dirt and dead skin without disrupting oil gland or the skin barrier.
Avoid cleansers with ingredients like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, sodium lauryl sulfate, or physical exfoliants in them. When you have dry skin, you want cleansing to be as least invasive as it possibly can be. Save active ingredients for other steps in your skincare routine.
If you find a gentle cleanser and follow it up with a hydrating moisturizer, you should be on your route to healthier, happier skin.
3. Sensitive.
Similar to dry skin, it is important to keep the cleansing process as minimally invasive as possible if you have sensitive skin. A simple cleanser is usually the best bet for sensitive skin. These cleansers will usually market themselves with a large “free from” section.
Look for free from fragrance, color, and alcohol. Other claims like “non-irritating” can also be good indications in a cleanser for sensitive skin.
Sensitive skin is usually the consequence of an allergy or poor skin health. In regards to ingredient allergies, it will take some experimentation with products to find what ingredient is reacting with your skin. If you are worried about an allergy, consult a dermatologist. As for poor skin health, a damaged skin barrier can be a large contributor to increased skin sensitivity. If this is the case, look for barrier rebuilding products to apply after cleansing.
Makeup & Sunscreen Removal.
If you wear heavy amounts of face and eye makeup, a standard, water-based cleanser may not be enough to clean your face. This also applies to anybody who uses a significant amount of mineral-based sunscreen. In this case, I highly recommend a double cleanse method to gently and effectively cleanse your face.
For this method, you will need two cleansers: water-based and oil-based.
A water-based cleanser is the cleanser you think of when you typically wash your face. It is similar to soap and foams when in contact with water. These cleansers are best at removing debris from the surface of the skin.
An oil-based cleanser is either an oil, or a specially formulated blend of oils and surfactants. Oil-based cleansers work by dissolving other oil-based particles from the skin (makeup, sunscreen, sebum, etc).
Double Cleanse Method.
There are only two steps to the double cleanse method.
Step 1: Start by applying your oil-based cleanser to dry skin. Work the cleanser into the skin and gently massage in a circular motion. You are done with this step when your makeup has melted into the oil and is no longer stuck to your skin.
Certain oil-based cleanser will come off on their own if they contain surfactants. If this is the case, rinse the oil based cleanser with water. If not, dampen the face with water and move onto Step 2.
Step 2: Wash face as normal with a water-based cleanser. This should remove any remaining oil-based cleanser and makeup.
In some cases, stubborn makeup might still be on face after the double cleanse method. If this is the case, be careful not to be aggressive with skin to remove makeup. Simply repeat both steps being careful to treat skin as gently as possible.
How to properly cleanse and wash your face.
Here are the simple steps to correctly wash your face:
- Use lukewarm water and the correct facial cleanser for your skin type and skin concerns. Pat dry with a clean towel. Never rub your skin dry as it can stretch and lead to wrinkles.
- Take a cotton ball soaked in toner and gently swipe on your face, especially on problem areas (e.g. oily T-zone).
- Use one to two pumps of your favorite serum for your entire face. Let dry.
- Moisturize. You can also combine your serum with your moisturizer, saving you some time by skipping another step.
- Apply eye cream to moisturize your under-eyes as these are the thinnest part of your skin.
Easy right? But it does take some discipline and patience to be able to maintain the right way of cleansing your face. Being aware of the right kind of facial cleanser for your skin type can help minimize the likelihood of it not working on your skin.
Conclusion.
It can be hard to find a cleanser that works perfectly with your skin. The most important thing is to find a cleanser that does not dry your skin out. Cleansing is one of the most important steps of a good skincare. If you can find the right balance between a cleanser that works without being too intense, you will be on the road to radiant, glowing skin in no time.
Good luck!
