We already know sunscreen is the holy grail, but here’s a guide on how to choose between its two variants–physical and Chemical.
What’s the difference between physical and chemical sunscreen?.
When choosing a sunscreen, you have a few decisions to make.
First, are you slathering up with a physical or chemical sunscreen? Does it even matter which one you use? Well, it might.
The critical difference between these types of sunscreens lies in how they block rays.
Physical sunscreen creates a physical barrier to UV rays while chemical filters absorb and scatter the spectrum, hence the original name, sunblock.
“Physical or mineral sunscreens sit on the surface of your skin and act as a shield, while chemical sunscreens sink into your skin and act more like a sponge,” says Dr Pankaj Chaturvedi, MD, Dermatologist & Co-Founder, MedLinks, New Delhi.
You likely already know the role sunscreen plays in your skin care routine. Sunscreen helps protect you from overexposure to the sun’s damaging rays, which can contribute to fine lines and wrinkles, signs of premature aging, and skin cancer. As a matter of fact, regular use of a broad-spectrum (UVA and UVB coverage) sunscreen has been shown to reduce the risk of nonmelanoma skin cancer and melanoma, the most aggressive form of skin cancer, says Nana Duffy, MD, FAAD.
There are pros and cons to both, which we’ll cover below. Sunscreen itself is nonnegotiable, of course, but we’ve got all the info you need to choose the best option for your sun protection needs.
Physical sunscreen.
Physical sunscreens, more commonly known as mineral sunscreens, work by creating a physical barrier on the skin that shields it from the sun’s rays.
These sunscreens deliver broad-spectrum protection by reflecting UV radiationaway from your skin. They also help ward off UVA-related skin damage, including hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.
Mineral sunscreens can also help block UVA rays that come through windows, which can cause pigmentation and breakdown of collagen. That’s why it’s important to wear sunscreen every day, even if you don’t plan to go outside.
Most mineral sunscreens are formulated with zinc oxide and titanium oxide, two ingredients recognized as safe and effective by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)Trusted Source.
Micronized zinc oxide or titanium sunscreens — or those with very small particles — work much like chemical sunscreens by absorbing UV raysTrusted Source
Zinc oxide sunscreens are often recommended for people with skin sensitivities, including acne, and are gentle enough to use on children,” says Elizabeth Hale, MD, board certified dermatologist and a vice president of the Skin Cancer Foundation.
“They also offer the most broad-spectrum protection (against both UVA and UVB rays) and are widely recommended for those that apply sunscreen to their face and neck daily, as they work to prevent year-round UVA damage including wrinkles, brown spots, and photoaging,” she says.
All benefits, for sure, but mineral sunscreens do have one downside: They can be chalky, difficult to spread, and — most glaringly — tend to leave behind a noticeable white cast to the skin. If you have a darker complexion, this whitish cast can be especially apparent.
Tip: Avoid a ghostly face by opting for newer formulas with tinted zinc oxide.
Mineral sunscreens also aren’t always as water resistant as chemical options, so you may need to be more diligent about reapplication.
Mineral sunscreens are available in formulas designed for both the face and body.
For the face
- EleVen by Venus Williams On-The-Defense Sunscreen SPF 30and Unrivaled Sun Serum SPF 35.These mineral sunscreens are designed to offer a lightweight feel and invisible finish, and to spread well and dry soft.
- COOLA Mineral Sun Silk Moisturizer Sunscreen SPF 30.This moisturizing sunscreen is designed to offer full-spectrum protection with a lightweight feel.
- Beekman 1802 Milk Primer SPF 35.This sunscreen is made with goat milk, safflower oil, and shea butter esters. As a primer, it can offer a protective first layer beneath makeup, but you can wear it alone, too.
For the body
- SALT & STONE Natural Mineral Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30.This mineral sunscreen is designed to resist water and sweat with a lightweight, nongreasy feel.
- COOLA Mineral Body Organic Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50.This formula is designed to be hydrating, nongreasy, and sheer.
Chemical sunscreen.
Chemical sunscreens don’t sit on the skin or block rays. Instead, they feature active ingredients that absorb UV rays before your skin can soak them up. These chemical UV filters include:
- oxybenzone
- avobenzone
- octisalate
- octocrylene
- homosalate
- octinoxate
“In most cases, chemical sunscreens do not leave a visible film layer on the skin, which makes them easier to wear on a broader range of skin tones,” says Hale.
She goes on to explain that most of her clients actually prefer chemical sunscreens, simply because they’re easier to apply and wear.
Because they’re designed for absorption, chemical sunscreens tend to go on smoothly without feeling sticky or greasy, and they don’t leave the telltale white cast.
Are chemical sunscreens safe?.
Much of the debate about chemical sunscreens relates to the ingredients themselves. The same ingredients that absorb so well may pose health concerns.
In 2019, the FDA proposed rules and regulationsTrusted Sourceintended to update sunscreen requirements.
The agency hasn’t yet found evidence that the majority of sunscreen chemicals can cause harmful side effects. That said, the FDA hasbanned two sunscreen ingredients:
- aminobenzoic acid (PABA)
- trolamine salicylate
The FDA continues to work with researchers to evaluate the safety of active sunscreen ingredients beyond zinc oxide and titanium dioxide.
A 2020 studyTrusted Sourcefound that 6 of 12 active ingredients currently under study by the FDA enter the bloodstream after just one application. These ingredients remain detectable in the blood and on the skin up to 3 weeks later — at concentrations passing the threshold where the FDA considered waiving additional safety trials.
The study authors emphasize the need for more research, but they also note their findings don’tsuggest you should skip sunscreen.
Another potential drawback of chemical sunscreens: People with sensitive skin may experience an unwanted reaction, like redness or inflammation. Some ingredients could exacerbate skin conditions like rosacea or melasma.
Like mineral formulas, chemical sunscreens are available in a range of SPFs and options.
So, which is better?.
In the physical versus chemical sunscreen showdown, there’s no clear winner.
“The most effective sunscreen is the one you will you use,” says Duffy. She notes that people are particular about the way a sunscreen feels and smells, but the most important thing remains wearing one consistently.
Still, people with sensitive skin will likely do better with a physical sunscreen, since it poses a lower risk of irritating your skin.
How to figure out the difference?.
As a consumer, how does one distinguish between chemical and physical sunscreen? One of the cues lies in reading labels. “Look for terms such as mineral sunscreen or best is to read the labels and watch out for the ingredients. If you see Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide as leading ingredients, then it is a physical sunscreen. If avobenzone, oxybenzone, octinoxate, tinosorb, etc mentioned, they are chemical sunscreens,” recommends Dr Chaturvedi.
Who should use a physical sunblock?.
Anyone can use a physical sunblock as it tends to be less irritating. “Mineral sunscreen offers the most broad-spectrum protection (against both UVA and UVB rays) and is widely recommended to prevent year-round UVA damage, including wrinkles, brown spots, and photoaging. It’s a better texture fit for sensitive and acne-prone skin,” he adds.
Talking about zinc oxide, Prasanthy Gurugubelli, a clean beauty formulator, and founder of beauty brand Daughter Earth, says, “Zinc Oxide, one of the primary components of physical sunscreen has anti-inflammatory benefits. It is gentle to use, and that’s why it finds its way to even baby products such as diaper rash creams. Zinc oxide is called yashad bhasma in Ayurveda and has been used for acne, eczema and psoriasis.” If you have sensitive, acne-prone, switching to physical sunblocks will improve your skin’s texture and appearance. Additionally, for kids, mineral sunscreens are much safer formulations.
